A twist of events recently had me visiting the St John’s Fish market in Fort with a bunch of colleagues. For those of you not familiar with the place, St John’s is the largest wholesale fish market in Sri Lanka where fish mongers bargain and sell massive amounts of fish, straight off the catch to smaller vendors, retail outlets and the few customers who dare to brave the odour, the crack of dawn timing and the possibility of being whacked by a large ‘thora’ fish just getting by. It was a completely new experience to say the least. This place starts up at 4am and is a raging, loud and boisterous jungle of activity till 11am. Male of Female, regardless, you will get dunked by fish-remnant laced water and/or have fish gut land on you if you happen to have the misfortune of getting in the way when the vendors are going about their business.
It’s all work for these guys, those short 7 hours. Mostly men, decked in shorts, shirt sleeves rolled up to elbows, thick rubber gum-boots to shield them from the worst of the muck. We meet Jude, one of these vendors, he was hurriedly loading fish from an ice filled styro-foam box to a large marble slab on the floor. Topping up mid-day.
“Saahena weda wagey neyda? – Looks like you’re busy, lot of work eh?”
“Ow mahaththaya. Keeyak hari hoyaganna epay – Yes Sir, I have to find a living”
“Kochchrak withara hambukaranawada – How much do you earn”
“Eka ithin dawasa yana vidihata thamai. Dawasakata hariyanna athi – Well, that depends on the sales per day, enough to put food on the table for a day”
We meander off. Information in tact. Walking towards the side of the market we see similar men like Jude walking in an out of tiny tea shops or ‘petti-kades’ as it is colloquially known in Sinhalese. These shops are where everyone comes for breakfast, tea and cigarette breaks.We walk into one of these and it’s already occupied by about 4 people, seating capacity is just one. Blue wooden panels, one single fluorescent bulb at the center of the low hanging roof, a glass counter displaying the limited breakfast options and 3 candy jars holding tin foil wrapped toffees. Delta toffee was all I recognized. On the side is a large boiler with tea sugar and a few ceramic mugs with broken handles.
“Mudalai, Seeni sambola pang kaalay, Tea ekai, Gold Leaf ekai. Menna rupiyal 50 - Seeni Sambol and quarter pound of bread, one cup of tea and a cigarette please, here’s 50 bucks”
Said a man eyeing us with an odd look. One of the many we got that day.
He had his bread, drank his cauldron of tea (I find no other way of expressing the size of that cup) lit up his cigi and was on his way. Sauntering back to the fish market. The owner of the little tea shop told us that they come an average of 3 times a day – Early morning tea, break fast and a mid morning cigarette and tea break before heading home.
It’s a hard life they lead. One that involves intense physical labour and mammoth amounts of endurance. So there we go, another facet of Sri Lankan life.